There's six plants there, though since they're all identical genetics I like to think of them as one big plant.
I tied some
twine around the outside to bring all of the outer perimeter colas inwards and create the 'bowl' shape I typically aim for with my SCROGs.
Should I use CO2 for my grow to get results like yours?
CO2 enrichment is like putting nitrous oxide boosters in a car, it only makes sense when every other aspect of your performance is tuned
and can handle the enrichment. You wouldn't add NOS to a Ford Pinto because it wouldn't make a difference and at best would be a waste of money and at worse it could cause problems elsewhere.
Growing marijuana, like many other plants, has to do with the Law of the Minimum which is evident in the statement, "The
availability of the most abundant nutrient in the soil is only as good as the availability of the least abundant nutrient in the soil."
The basic building blocks for your plants are Nutrients, Water, Light, and CO2. At any given moment one of these is the 'minimum' (or the scarcest) and creates a bottleneck of resources for everything else. In your case that minimum is the lighting, since that is your least abundant
resource. You can give the plants all the CO2 and water and nutrients you want but since your light is the limiting factor all of the increases in everything else will be for naught and can even be harmful.
That's why you shouldn't use CO2 with fluorescent lights. CO2 only makes sense when every other aspect of your grow environment can handle it. Once you have HID discharge lighting and your nutrients and watering
schedules are dialed in, CO2 will be your 'minimum' and your limiting factor for growth, which is the point at which you should start considering adding CO2 to your grow. Until then you'd be wasting your resources.
Learn more about using CO2 effectively in the grow room
How do you flush your plants in a ScrOG setup?
I start the flush process 10 days before harvest. Every day I fill up four 5-gallon buckets with unbalanced tap water, and submerge the rockwool slabs for a few minutes with each of the 5-gallon buckets. This pulls the salts out of the rockwool. Over the course of the 10 days, 200 gallons of water goes through the
slabs.
I measure the TDS/EC of last bucket of runoff every day and the PPM falls exponentially. The first day of flush the fourth bucket TDS measures ~1400 ppm. By the last day of flush the TDS measures around ~140 ppm, which is within 50 ppm of the tap water I start with.
The measuring allows me to be sure that I've flushed as many salts as
possible out of the medium. I use unbalanced tap water to flush because in my opinion, any nutrients the plants are consuming at this point come from within the plant's reserves and should not be coming from the medium. Because of this, the pH of the water is irrelevant since pH only matters when you're trying to maximize nutrient uptake which is the opposite of what we want during flush.
I also pull off many of the fan
leaves when I start flush to encourage the plant to pull nutrients from the leaves nestled around and within the buds to further improve quality.
It's still drying so stay tuned for the final yield. My last run was 36 ounces!